Understanding Greenwashing
The natural beauty market has experienced an unprecedented surge in demand in the past few years; it’s no wonder that many brands are eager to pledge allegiance to all things green. But what really makes a “natural” body product? Is it the promise of plant-derived ingredients? Is it the recycled, or at least recyclable, packaging? Or is it as little as a few flowers sketched onto the label?
When it comes to all-natural cosmetics, things aren’t always as straightforward as they seem. In fact, the lexicon surrounding eco-friendly skincare and beauty products is fraught with inaccuracies. Generally speaking, the “natural” and “organic” terms that may appear on a product label are fairly unregulated. For example, a brand isn’t actually obligated to follow any rules from the USDA or FDA in order to market a product as “natural.”
This effect is called greenwashing: concealing environmentally unfriendly practices while simultaneously claiming to be “all-natural” and “eco-friendly.”
Image from rectified.co
How does greenwashing happen?
Greenwashing occurs when a company tries to appear more environmentally friendly than they actually are by claiming that their products are “natural,” “plant-derived,” or “organic.” In reality, those are fairly empty terms in the cosmetic industry.
Greenwashing as a term dates back to the 1980s. As a practice, it’s been compounded by the lack of regulation on what can legally be printed on skincare labels. Since there is no singular governing body that can hold brands accountable when they claim a product is “natural,” companies are enabled to take advantage of environmentally-minded consumers looking for body products that are truly safe.
How to spot greenwashing
In general, if a product is packaged in natural tones or botanical motifs and features words and phrases like botanical, chemical-free, earth-friendly, gentle, green, herbal, mineral, natural, plant-derived, pure, raw, safe for sensitive skin, organic, or made with plant extracts, it’s a sign that you should probably take a closer look at the full ingredient list on the back of the package. Just because a product is fragranced with essential oils, for example, that doesn’t mean the rest of the ingredients are safe and natural. Keep an eye out for common cosmetic chemicals like parabens, petroleum, octinoxate, oxybenzone, PEGs, and synthetic fragrances, which can easily slip past the “eco-friendly” label on the front of the package.
Of course, there's more to sustainable skincare than just the ingredients. It’s great if a product has responsibly sourced, all-natural ingredients, but if it’s packaged in plastic, glitter, or styrofoam, for example, is it still the right choice? Further, you might also want to research what a company does with their waste. Do they recycle their waste? Do they use harmful and harsh bleaches to clean their equipment? Are they committed to finding sustainable packaging options? It’s important to decide for yourself what you consider acceptable for the products you use every day.
The anti-greenwashing guide
Check for third-party certifications. Certifications from third-party organizations can take the legwork out of shopping for green cosmetics. For example, the Soil Association works with COSMOS to establish global standards for the beauty market and can give brands a seal of approval that certifies their organic or all-natural status. The Soil Association updates their list every year to account for new products, and you can search for existing products here. Another indicator of a product’s ethical status is the Leaping Bunny logo, which ensures a product has passed rigorous animal cruelty checks. If you’re looking for organic skincare, check for an official organic certification from the USDA.
Research ingredients. Both the Soil Association and the Environmental Working Group publish exhaustive lists of particular ingredients to avoid. These lists can help you understand why a certain ingredient might be harmful, so you can make decisions for yourself.
Packaging matters, too. When shopping for skincare products, look for packaging made from recycled or recyclable plastic, bioplastics, paper, or glass. Better yet, seek out products that aren’t packaged in anything at all, like shampoo bars and toothpaste tabs! And when you finish using a product, make sure to either recycle the packaging properly or reuse it.
DIY your skincare. Consider, for example, switching from a traditional lotion to a single-ingredient, plant-derived skin moisturizer like coconut oil, olive oil, or cocoa butter. By simplifying your skin routine, you’ll know exactly what’s being absorbed into your body, avoiding greenwashing altogether.
Use your voice. If you love a product but hate the parabens or the silly amount of packaging it comes with, say something! Interact with brands on social media, for example, and they will start to take notice. You can also send a message to the skincare industry by purchasing from companies committed to more transparency and pushing for more regulation, not less.
Sustainable beauty is a multi-layered issue, and we take active measures to be environmentally sustainable consumers every day. So why let marketing gimmicks like greenwashing fail us?